Now that the yearly New Years service is over, it’s safe to admit. I don’t like champagne.
That will probably get my ticket yanked with a segment of the liquor industry, the high-stepping party crew and modern romance food aficionados, but there it is. Sure, I raised my glass and drank with everybody else. But, it’s kind of like clapping for the neighbor’s child’s recital. Not to be confused with actual enjoyment.
Is champagne really the right New Year’s drink in the first place? For a hearty sendoff of one year and the fingers-crossed hopes for a new one? Seems to me the occasion deserves a draft Guinness, or a shot of Bushmills, a decent merlot or the like. A touch of bitterness, followed by a moment of impossible-to-ignore fullness of flavor, and a real loosening of expectations.
I first got suspicious when I learned champagne was actually a wine mistake. Centuries ago in France champagne grapes were harvested so late, winter cold would sometimes stop the wine fermenting, only to restart in the spring. This caused the yeast to go nuts and produce more gas than usual. Bottles exploded, the wine fizzed, that kind of mess. Until one day, as they were dumping another ruined batch, some prince or another wandered in, tasted the stuff, and offered to pay good money. They couldn’t unload it fast enough.
Now, I’ve got nothing against the champagne industry, who’ve carried on this lucrative tradition, or folks who enjoy bubbly white wines. I’ll just suggest my favorite way to dispose of this French mistake and its domestic cousins is over shrimp, salad, or as below, to sauce a chicken. It’s a delicious way to dress food, one pan, man-simple cooking. And what were you planning to do with all the half-empties anyway?
Large cast iron or other heavy skillet (big enough to hold the chicken), baking dish (to keep chicken warm)
- 4 chicken breasts
- salt and pepper
- 1/2 cup butter
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1/3 – 1/2 bottle of champagne
- 1 cup chicken broth
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1/2 teaspoon tarragon
How To Make:
- Salt and pepper the chicken breasts.
- Melt the butter in the skillet, and when it starts to foam, add the garlic.
- Add the rest of the butter and heat for one minute at medium heat.
- Add the chicken skin side down and brown it, then turn it over, about 5 minutes for each side
- Add the champagne to the skillet and cook for 10 minutes.
- Add the chicken broth and tarragon, and cook another 15 minutes.
- Take the chicken out, place in a baking pan, cover and keep warm (in the oven, set to its lowest temperature would work).
- Add the cream to the pan, raise the heat medium high to bring the liquid to a gentle boil, and stirring, let the sauce reduce in volume by about one half. This can take 15 minutes or more, depending on how much liquid you have at this stage.
- Return the chicken to the sauce, coat it well and serve, pouring the extra sauce over the chicken.